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Author Topic: Half-Hull Construction step by step  (Read 6906 times)

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Half-Hull Construction step by step
« on: November 10, 2007, 08:12:07 AM »
Yacht name: Nan of Fife
Year: 1896
Type: Gaff Cutter
Build & Design: William Fife III (1857-1944)
Length: 19.25 m


Nan, originally commissioned by Irishman Thomas Burrowes, is the oldest William Fife designed yacht still sailing. She was owned in 1948 by Georges-Henry Menhinick, the grandfather of Phillipe. In 1999 and with incredible luck, Philippe discovered a picture on the internet of the wrecked yacht in Cap d'Agde, south of France. He recognized the lines at once. He bought the wreck and created his own boatyard in Le Havre du Lupin, near St Malo in Bretagne. Nan took part in the America's Cup Jubilee in 2001 in Cowes, soon after her relaunch. A prodigious test of resistance. Indeed with extraordinary gracefulness of 19.25 meters length and more than 300 metres of sails…




And now our Half-Hull Construction step by step by step.
To start our project, view the third model on the bottom of the left column, this is my choice to show you my method of carving a half hull. In this case the famous NAN built in 1896 by William Fife,


As with all projects of this type there is much research to be done. The job is just beginning…


The plans were amplified to get 60 centimetres of model’s length.


Molds in cardboard.



Thickness. Pieces 1 to 4,--- 9 millimeters. The 5th--- 14,5milimetres.
Without professional tools it is not easy to get these measures for our model, but the MDF almost can do that as required. It is the most important advantage of this material.


The molds fixated to mark that contour.


The pieces sawed with 1 or 2 millimetres out of the lines. Larger is corrected easily not the contrary…


It shows the largest half of the deck, 5,4 centimetres.


All pieces sawed. Two 0/5? The reason is easy…it was to get the correct total thickness of the model.


The temporary assemblage, less the helm, give an idea of our future half model.


The arrows show the adjust to make with a file appropriate to wood. Please take care with the extremities. They are very weak.


With the starboard geometric plan, I marked the distance between the longitudinal lines.


Pieces 5/5 of different thickness glued together.


Pieces 1/5, 2/5, 3/5, 4/5 their extremities numbered in black have inside a contour numbered too but in red, where the correspondent piece will be glued later.


I then applied 3 layers of leisure (dark red) in the reverse of the pieces.
Interval, 24 hours between the layers. You can see the result in following photo.


The contrast of the longitudinal lines after the finishing.


The following photos show the correct position to glue, piece by piece.






Each time, it is easier to glue only a couple of pieces.



The complete conjunct. To guarantee a good gluing it is necessary 24 hours.


Behind half hull (not yet carved) the mold with vertical lines, those correspond to the position of different contours of transversal plan.



The mold of half of deck


Two molds are useful for the first adjustments.


This mold on the top allows to cut the contour of deck.


One Knife and a little planer are good to improve our work in this time.



The transversal plan is divided in the middle. At the right side the contours of the timbers 1 to 7, starting from the prow, in yellow cardboard. At the left side, 8 to 14 in rose cardboard. The colours serve to show only the 2 parts. One, the prow to the middle, the other the middle to the poop.


At the moment, we leave the piece of the poop 15 for later. The open sides of the moulds will be the guides for our carving.


The tools needed and the deck adjusted.


The grinder and oil serve to sharpen the craft carving tools. The small screwdriver was sharpen tool to open grooves following the molds.


Not a special reason to choose this photo, perhaps it gives a better image…, but our carving is beginning.



Alternately I opened grooves in the block.


In sawing, as it is impossible to correct the mistakes with bitumen, our task it will be a little difficult. Remember the model will not be painted but varnished!





The wood rasp will improve a lot the work to be done.


It is time…not for a break… but to glue the piece 05.


It is possible to see the longitudinal lines in the model.


It is time with the mold 15 and a wood rasp adjust the poop.


Later the helm in MDF of 3milimetre will be glued on the correct place in piece 05


Just now the sealing primer it will be used frequently to obtain the necessary hardness for polish the model starting with sandpaper 80 or 100 and finishing at 600…


First coat …the model is wet…It will be necessary a lot of them.


In our next installment, very soon we will come back to finish our NAN.
« Last Edit: June 17, 2010, 07:43:44 AM by oliveira »


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